Until that point, he was living a very comfortable life. He wanted to lead an exceptional life.
-OJ 30 for 30
Costa Rica was a heck of a lot of fun. With the exception of some mystery welts that kept showing up, I did the things I wanted to do – surf, learn new things/push limits (free dive/spearfish certainly), read, meet some new folks and get healthy again.
I didn’t resolve the outstanding issue of what to think/feel about the whole incident with L but maybe made a little progress in framing. And I think trying to improve at surfing taught me some general principles for life – 1) get really granular about how to get better and 2) the most important thing is to maintain composure and calmness at the critical moment. To not be one of those guys who exhausts himself chasing every wave or getting emotional, but to be calm and happy and pinpoint specific technical things to improve.
I know what I’m after so let’s do it.